With the captivating dog choker collar, the idea is that once the dog knows he’ll get a strong correction when he misbehaves, you don't need to continue to give strong corrections often; a light correction, may be good enough because it's a reminder that a stronger, more painful correction can occur. In fact, it's this phenomenon, with the use of a lighter warning correction that makes some people think that it's the sound of the collar being jerked that teaches the dog, as if there’s something innately aversive about the sound. If that were true, then you’d be able to train dogs with a recording of the sound of a captivating dog choker collar snapping, even if the dog had never received a captivating dog choker collar correction before and was not sound sensitive. In other words, if that were true, someone who could have developed a little device that dogs can wear on their leash or flat collar that makes the sound of a captivating dog choker collar snapping would be rich!
By far the most common collar is the captivating dog choker collar that fastens with a plastic clip or a buckle. These collars are the most convenient to slip on and off and are handy because they can hold your dog's identification, rabies, and license tags. Even though this type of collar retains its size, the collar can become a hazard. Dogs playing roughly and in a mouthy manner can get their mouth caught in the collar of another dog, causing panic in one or both dogs. As they struggle to get loose, the collar can tighten and dogs have suffocated as a result of this type of play. Dogs who are the object of this type of rough play should wear break-away collars, similar to the break-away collars in cats, at least during play and unsupervised times. Some owners opt to avoid collars or any gear at all unless they are taking their dog on a walk. Although this in an option, I prefer to have visible identification on my dog at all times and a collar with its tags is the most convenient way to do this.